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November 12, 2024

Making and Thinking

I realized just a little while ago that I often jump in to help and sometimes make things worse. Since this is such a monumental event (Trump being elected), I felt like I should get my feet under me before shooting my mouth off again. So, I’m making things. It always grounds me a bit to have my hands on something.

I’m making some very small cased-in blank books. No page numbers, ruling, dots, or motif. Part of this is for economy, but mostly because my workhorse printer couldn’t be repaired any more. These’ll be nominally 4×6″ and 4×5″ with 160 pages (80 sheets) of 24lb Classic Crest paper. I plan to cover them with linen but we’ll see when we get there. Here are some photos of the work in progress:

So far, it’s taken 9 hours over four days, which works out to about 45 minutes per book, plus about an hour to make the ribbon bookmarks. This is what I’d consider the halfway point.

Completed book blocks.

There’s a lot of work behind these photos that I just didn’t have the patience to capture. First, the spines’ widths were measured and transferred to a piece of heavy card stock. Next, the desired board heights and widths were figured and then cut out. Finally, you can see the last step above, which is connecting the two boards with the heavy card, leaving the right amount of space for the spine and hinge.

Normally, I like to choose colors before I begin. In this case, I just needed to be working so I jumped in. I chose the fabrics from my existing stash and cut them to size. Making book cloth this way usually works out to about 15 to 20 minutes per piece (versus making a batch of one color and size, which can get it down to it as little as 10 minutes per piece).

Need to let the backing papers dry at least 12 to 24 hours. With about 15 hours of work on these 12 small books, still not much more than halfway done. I’ll cook up the paste for making the book cloth and then hope it’ll last long enough to put the cloth on the covers. This is always a bit of a gamble.

The photos below show 6 TBS of rice starch being cooked (and stirred constantly) for about 45 minutes. I let it cool, then add a solution of CaOH to bring it to a pH of 7 or higher. As you can see in the 3rd photo, it’s just barely there.

Tomorrow, I’ll back the fabric with this paste and it’ll dry overnight. That means I won’t get back to the 12 little books until Saturday (2 days from now).

Just before I headed out to do some errands, I backed about half of the fabric. The basic steps are to prime the tinted kozo paper with paste, wet the fabric and place on a hard, flat surface. Make sure it is straight! Apply paste and spread evenly. I use a squeegee and press the paste through the fabric (not generally recommended, but this is what works for me). Then, gently drape the kozo onto the fabric and roll with a soft rubber brayer. Let the sloppy mess dry overnight, peel it off, and use it. Below are snaps of most of the steps.

There is some experience to be had in doing this process, but obviously, it’s not that complex. I find that laying out each piece of fabric with the right amount of moisture and then straightening it carefully is important. After that, it needs to be realigned when adding paste and during the rolling. Pressing too hard will squeeze all the paste out and the paper won’t stick well to the fabric. Press too lightly and there may be lumps of paste or it could skew the paper relative to the fabric. Still, it’s not rocket science.

Although the covering is just a few discrete steps, it often consumes up to 40% of the total time to make a book! Also, I made some errors which forced some rework. But, despite that, I finished all 12 books. Here’s a quick photo summary of the covering, cleaning, and finishing/pressing. It’s a composite of several different covers.

One of the last steps in making the case is to fill in that brown center portion with card stock that brings everything level with the fabric turn in aka “infill”. This creates a nice, flat, finished look when the endpapers are pasted down on top. If you use a thick enough endpaper, you can skip this step, but I do it on almost every book I make. I should probably reconsider that since I might be wasting materials.

After this, the case is done and ready for the book block to be “pasted down”. This is a tedious step (at least for me) so I have almost never gotten it on camera. I’d need another person to do that, and I work alone. It doesn’t take much time, maybe 6-15 minutes per book, but it involves a lot of juggling of waste paper, paste, cleaning, and pressing.

After the book is safely pasted down, I place it under weight to dry; usually overnight, and if I have patience, a couple days. Even after it’s dry and “finished” I like to keep them under pressure for 2-3 days. There’s a lot of natural movement in books that I hadn’t appreciated until after I started making them. Molding them under weights when they’re newly made goes a long way in influencing how they sit in the long term.

In total, this was 23 hours of work over 8 days. I got 12 out of the 12 books I started which is typical. This is all just practice…for the next batch. It was also a great opportunity to think carefully about how to respond to rising fascism.

June 4, 2024

Street Art Book

I’m making a small, 60 or so, page book with the photos of my street art stencils. The stencils feature the #resist hashtag and were done in 2018.

Prototype, 6×4″

I went to my usual street photography places and put these down right on the sidewalk. Usually in broad daylight and dragging my big folder of stencils and paints. The book itself will have less to do with the process of making them and more to do with sharing them. They’re my response to the apathy that led to Trump and the shallowness of the “it can’t happen here” crowd. Yes, I’m very critical.

Update: October 2024. The books have been made. I’m not totally happy with the cover—specifically, the stencil isn’t fully crisp. I’m also dissatisfied with the content. It’s just photos of the stencils. It lacks the energy that went into making them. Ultimately I attracted the attention of someone who called the cops and haven’t made any since then. I made an edition of 5 and listed them for sale on Etsy here.

July 23, 2023

Making Ribbon Bookmarks

My process for this has changed lately. Originally, I took cotton twill ribbon and soaked it in fabric paint. Then, I’d heat set the fabric paint, because if you don’t, it’ll rub off on your book! The next step would be to stencil on a decoration, touch it up with a detail brush, and heat set it again. The final step was to cut it to the proper length. It would take from 10 to 15 minutes per ribbon.

I’ve decided to start dyeing the ribbons instead of fabric paint. This should be much, much faster. Here are some photos from the first batch.

Wrapped up the cotton twill in a terrible version of a skein for washing and then dunking in the dye.

For the next attempt, I’m going to get a niddy noddy to create a better skein (which keeps tangling to a minimum).

The rest of the process is rinsing out the excess dye and drying the ribbon. I cut it to length and apply the stencil using fabric paint. Touch it up with a tiny paint brush, heat set the paint, and put a final angled cut on it. The very last step is to apply some Fray Chek and let it air dry. My goal, each time I do these, is to make 25 or more at a time.

Ultimately, I’d make these from linen ribbon, but I haven’t found a reliable source for 100% linen ribbons. Another idea I’ve had is to go in the opposite direction in terms of efficiency–band weaving. It could be a cool way to create a really luxurious and beautiful bookmark without using any paint.

July 22, 2023

Making Paste

Why Paste?

The modern all around adhesive for bookbinding is Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA), but paste is still common. PVA, because it is water resistant, has the disadvantage of staining some materials and being very hard to clean off of others. On the other hand, starch paste is easy enough to clean up with a damp cloth. Here’s why and how I use it.

TraitPVAPaste
Cost$50/gallon$2/lb
Reversiblenot typicallyyes
Flexibleyesno
Moisture / cocklingless likely to cockle paperhighly prone to cockling
Table 1: Comparison of PVA to Paste

What Kind of Paste?

You can make a good paper paste with flour, but for bookbinding, I prefer to use starch. Starch is inexpensive ($2/16oz), dries clear, and can be reworked. Wheat starch can sometimes dry with a slight yellow tinge.

I make my paste extra thick from the start and thin it down with water as needed. I make 2-4 tablespoons worth at a time. This yields about 6-10oz of paste–enough for 3-4 cloth covered books. I need to get a kitchen scale so I can use weight instead of volume. I get my starch from an asian food market and I have found that there is some variation in the amount of paste I can get from any given bag. My basic formula is 1 part starch to 3 parts water.

I pre-soak this mixture for 12-24 hours, though I’ll cut it to 2 hours in a pinch. The longer pre-soak seems to yield a paste that stays gelled longer. No batch of paste will last more than about 3-5 days. It will all eventually lose its texture and develop mold. When it does, dump it out–outside, or maybe in your toilet. Don’t put it down your sink. It’ll smell terrible and probably clog the drain, too.

After soaking, heat it gently in a small sauce pot and stir continuously. A two tablespoon batch will thicken in about 10 minutes and be fully cooked in about 20 minutes. A four tablespoon batch will take about 25-30 minutes. A lot of this will vary by the size of the pot you use (bigger pot will usually cook it faster) and the temperature you use. After cooking, I put it in a plastic container to cool and then add calcium hydroxide via an eye dropper to bring the pH up to 7 or 8.

Before using it, I thoroughly mix it to a working consistency and apply it with a brush or putty knife.

When dried, paste becomes slightly brittle, so it is not good for spines. Traditional bookbinding recognized that and used animal glues (think rabbit skin glue, for example). So, paste was used nearly everywhere else, including adhering leather, paper, and fabric to covers. This is how I use it also, though, you could use PVA everywhere you use paste.

July 22, 2023

Binding US Constitutions To Give Away

The US Constitution turns out to be a fairly succinct document and can be printed in a 4×5″ pocket notebook quite readily. Even with all of the ratified amendments, it’s easy enough to put on 48 printed pages.

As a reference for the text, I use the version published 25 July 2007 by the US House of Representatives, though I am considering updating that to the version kept by the National Archives. When I started in 2016, I laid it out in OpenOffice, then LibreOffice, and finally upgraded to a proper publishing program with Affinity Publisher 1.9. I produce the printer’s sheets on my inkjet printer and then fold and tear them into signatures…usually 2 signatures of 24 printed pages, each.

After the first 500 or so, I decided to start piercing the signatures with this homemade device.

After folding, tearing, and piercing, I sew them up with linen thread and cover the spines with a light kozo tissue. Most of the free versions include a printed endpaper which gives the source of the text and the reason for the project. Those are tipped in with PVA and pasted down with rice starch to a light-weight card stock cover.

The final assembly is pressed between boards for several days and then trimmed on a stack cutter. Each gets a quick inspection before being numbered. Only the “free” versions are numbered. I make a more elaborate linen covered version with a stenciled cover that I sell for $10-20. In total, the free versions take about 15 – 25 minutes of direct labor and about $1 for printing and materials.

I have a lot of fun leaving them on a table in a busy coffeeshop and sitting nearby to see what the reactions are. A lot of people react cynically. An equal number are curious but too afraid to take one. It’s no problem to give them away at various protests where they’re very much appreciated.